Glossary


S

The terms and definitions found in the glossary relate to the science of meteorology.

For descriptions and definitions of words used in the Bureau's forecasts and warnings, please refer to Weather Words.


Sea and Swell


SEA (in open sea)
Description Height (metres) Effect
Calm (glassy) 0 No waves breaking on beach
Calm (rippled) 0 - 0.1 No waves breaking on beach
Smooth 0.1 - 0.5 Slight waves breaking on beach
Slight 0.5 - 1.25 Waves rock buoys and small craft
Moderate 1.25 - 2.5 Sea becoming furrowed
Rough 2.5 - 4 Sea deeply furrowed 
Very rough 4-6 Sea much disturbed with rollers having steep fronts
High 6-9 Sea much disturbed with rollers having steep fronts (damage to foreshore)
Very high 9-14 Towering seas
Phenomenal over 14 Precipitous seas (experienced only in cyclones)

SWELL
Description Wave Length Period Wave Height
Low swell of short or average length 0 - 200 m Less than 11 sec  0-2 m 
Long, low swell over 200 m Greater than 11 sec 0-2 m
Short swell of moderate height 0-100 m Less than 8 sec 2-4 m
Average swell of moderate height 100-200 m Greater than 8 sec, less than 11 sec 2-4 m
Long swell of moderate height over 200 m Greater than 11 sec 2-4 m
Short heavy swell 0-100 m Less than 8 sec over 4 m
Average length heavy swell 100-200 m Greater than 8 sec, less than 11 sec over 4 m
Long heavy swell over 200 m Greater than 11 sec over 4 m